CLICK IMAGE for more info and price by: David Shath Square Topics include: faucet tube, melamine caul, abrasive board, veneer overhang, hammer veneering, veneer hammer, veneering techniques, blade drift, closer strips, been veneered, bending plywood, veneer tape, bent lamination, bending form, cabinet scraper, gram strength, maple edge, shoot the edges, air from the bag, veneer press, hide glue, trim the overhang, long open time, place the workpiece, trim bit CLICK HERE for more information and price Reviews: fine introduction to modern veneering: David Square has written a book covering the basics of veneering as it is praticed today in the small professional or serious amateur shop. Somewhat brief chapters describe the hammer and the mechanical methods of applying veneer. Mr. Square offers instructions for making a veneering hammer and for setting up an inexpensive mechanical press, for cutting and joining veneer, and for handling hide glue. Two small projects illustrate these techniques, while pointing out their capabilities and their limitations. This discussion should adequately prepare those unfortunate souls, whom budget constraints or fear of commitment prevent from investing in professional tools, to undertake small projects successfully. The author spends the rest of the book discussing vacuum veneering, the least expensive practicable method for veneering the large panels needed for casework or furniture making and the only economically viable method for working with curved forms. He weighs the costs and benefits of commercial and homemade vacuum systems, offers clear instructions for basic and advanced pressing techniques, and illustrates his discussion with two not completely unappealing furniture projects. After reading this book, I was thoroughly convinced that vacuum veneering is the only profitable approach to veneer in the small shop. Following its advice, I purchased a commercial vacuum system and successfully veneered panels for casework on my first attempt, and with little effort or waste. The labor savings on this one job, compared to the cost of setting up and taking down multiple cauls with numerous clamps, was enough to recover the cost of the vacuum system. I strongly recommend this book, and the techniques it endorses, to anyone sufficiently serious about veneering to invest moderately in it. Too much of one topic: This book has a fairly pretentious title: "The Veneering Book." Not "A Veneering Book". Not "A Guide to Veering by one guy who wrote some articles for Fine Woodworking." No, it is called "The Veneering Book" and as such makes the pretense of being authoritative on the subject of veenering. The problem is that this book is mostly focused on vaccuum veneering. In fact, 90 pages are dedicated to every facet of vacuum veneering, covering 6 chapters. The remaining 47 pages of text lightly cover how veneer is made, Hammer Veneering, and Mechanical Veneering. No information is provided at all about dry glue veneering, flattening veneer, patching holes in highly figured veneer, and many other important topics. I bought this book a few years ago to learn about veneering. After all, it is published by Fine Woodworking and is called: "The Veneering Book." I was disappointed to find that it was so focused on vacuum veneering--which requires a much larger investment in equipment and storage space than does the dry glue or hammer methods. I can whole heartedly recommend a book called "Venering, Foundation Course" by Micheal Burton. It is far superior for the beginner, and has much more depth for the experienced. This book should have been called "The Vacuum Veneering Book With a Little Bit of Other Material Thrown in at the Beginning to Fool the Unwary into Buying it."... ;) |