Simple Plywood Cabinet (Building Cases)

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The size of the cabinet shown makes it suitable for use as a taboret, credenza, or even a bedside cabinet. Simple to build, it can be made of fir plywood or even particleboard. However if you make the cabinet from quality materials, hardwood plywood for example, the result will have a handsome, professionally finished look.

Few tools are required. Rabbets, grooves, and dadoes normally used in a cabinet of this type have been replaced by nailers and cleats, thus eliminating the need for a table saw. If the lumberyard cuts the plywood for you, the only tools required for construction are a hammer, combination square, tape measure, simple miter box, saw, and some clamps.

Materials list

From ¾” sheet material cut (or have cut): 1 top at 24¼ inches by 14 1/8-inches, 2 sides at 13¼ inches by 21¾-inches, 1 bottom at 22½-inches by 13 inches, 1 shelf at 22 ½-inches by 12½-inches, and 2 doors at 11 15/16-inches by 21 11/16-inches.

From ¼-inch plywood, cut a back panel 22½-inches by 21¾-inches.

You will also need a 72-inch-long piece of 2 by 4 for the pedestal base (get a straight board without knots), 120 inches of ¾-inch-square molding for making cleats, 20 feet of ¾” wide wood tape veneer (to match the plywood selected), and hardware.


Cabinet in corner; Front view; Side view


Front view: Apply veneer tape to panel edges; back view: Cleats for back panel; Back panel fits flush

Assembling the pieces

1. Cut cleats to length as follows:

On bottom face of top panel: 2 cleats set back 7/8 inch from right and left edges.

On each side panel: 1 vertical placed 1/4 inch from back edge; 1 horizontal for shelf set 10 inches down from the top edge; 1 horizontal placed ¾ inch up from bottom edge.

Cut cleats as you need them, referring to illustration for correct placement. Apply glue to cleats and, using 3d finishing nails, attach them to in side face of each piece.

2. Apply veneer edge tape to front and side edges of lop panel and to all 4 sides of each door panel.

3. Check pieces for fit (but don’t attach them). Sand and finish pieces. 4. Assemble by gluing and clamping panels against cleats you already attached. Unless you have 8 clamps, glue each joint and wait for glue to set before moving on to next joint. As you assemble pieces, pay close attention to the way they overlap and overhang. Set in back panel last. Secure it in place with glue and finishing nails.

5. Cut appropriate mortises for hinges, and install doors, pulls, and catches.

6. From the 2 by 4 board, cut 2 pieces at 21½ inches and 2 pieces at 11½ inches for the pedestal base. Depending on the desired height, lay 2 by 4 either flat or on edge. Miter ends of each piece. Stain or paint assembled base and attach it to bottom of cabinet with small L brackets.

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Modified: Monday, 2013-05-20 23:15 PST